Moritz Grossmann

Grail Watch 9.1: Moritz Grossmann × Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 Stainless Steel ‘German Silver’

Affectionately nicknamed ‘The Silver Bullet,' our latest creation was born in Germany’s watchmaking heartland, Glashütte, by the masters at Moritz Grossman. Based on the Benu 37mm model, this white gold cased watch manages to be full of traditional details, while also being an exceptional example of Zen reductionism. The caliber of the Silver Bullet is traditionally and exceptionally finished. The large, bold bridge and beautifully engraved escape wheel cock epitomise German watchmaking, with a respectable 48-hour power reserve.
The dial, engine-turned from a block of solid Sterling silver, is just as exceptional, but a little less German. That’s because the dial has been created by Kari Voutilainen at his dial factory, Comblémine, a factory which boasts one of the world’s best collections of vintage rose engines. With its complicated mix of three guilloché patterns, the depth and beauty of this dial match the clean case and caliber.

Movement: Manual winding caliber 102.1; 48-hour power reserve

Functions: Hours, minutes and small seconds
Case: 37mm; Stainless Steel 
Dial: Guilloché à main on German silver; applied hour markers and Breguet numerals
Strap: Kudu leather strap, with an additional hand-stitched Taupe Epsom leather strap custom made with purple stitches, by Delugs
Availability: Limited edition of 20 pieces

Breitling is regarded as being one of the preeminent brands for aviator watches, having been of the first watch companies to feature a slide rule on the dial of a chronograph. They first did this in the early 1940s on the Chronomat. The Navitimer was launched in 1952 and for years was the most important watch in its line-up. Still today, the Navitimer is used as a navigational aide by pilots and the watch has become a classic piece for chrono collectors. This is a special reference 815 known as the ‘LONG PLAYING’ STOCKHOLM CHRONOMETER’ TILLHÖR TELEVERKET’ for the Swedish telephone company.

A Dial of Dreams

Not only does the German silver dial promise to develop a distinctive personality of its own over time, but thanks to the complex array of guilloché techniques, it’s a dial that demonstrates just how impressive the vast array of vintage rose engine machines at Kari Voutilainen’s dial factory, Comblémine actually are. The applied hour markers and Breguet-style numerals at 9, 12 and 3 are the finishing touches on this very special dial.

German Engineering

Powered by the manual-winding caliber 102.1, this watch exemplifies everything that makes German watchmaking so special. The strong three-fifths plate is traditionally German, as is the hand-engraved escape wheel and balance cock with heat-purpled screws.

Making a Case for Perfection

Our latest limited edition is based on the Moritz Grossman Benu — a model first launched in 2010, and one which upholds the values of classical watchmaking. Not only is the silhouette flawlessly smooth, but the overall case width of 37mm is perfect for modern sensibilities.

Comfort and Style

Given that the German silver dial will change over time, it’s only fitting to add a strap to match. The soft brown Kudu leather strap is supple and instantly comfortable, with a worn-in patina that makes this watch feel right at home on the wrist.