6 May, 2024
Grail Watch 11: Sartory Billard SB07 'Ghost'
Our first collaboration with Sartory Billard has given rise to our most unflinching and visually arresting limited edition yet — an integrated bracelet steel sports watch with a full-mirror finish.
WORDS Cheryl Chia
Our latest Grail Watch is the Sartory Billard SB07 ‘Ghost’, a 15-piece edition offering our radical take on the brand’s integrated sports watch. The fully mirror-polished finish – from the case, to the dial, to the bracelet – straddles the line between timepiece and artwork, resulting in a one of a kind creation that’s distinctively Sartory Billard.
Read on to discover our journey toward Grail Watch 11: Sartory Billard SB07 ‘Ghost’.
When the opportunity arose for us to collaborate with Sartory Billard on a Grail Watch, the idea was to create something aesthetically radical yet rather versatile. Sartory Billard first introduced a mirrored dial back in 2020 with the SB04 “Ghost,” a limited edition titanium watch created in collaboration with Zurich-based watch content production company Swiss Watch Gang. Subsequently, this stylistic approach was further expanded upon by Bulgari with the Octo Finissimo Sejima Edition, designed in collaboration with Japanese architect Kazuyo Sejima in 2022.
Grail Watch 11: Sartory Billard SB07 ‘Ghost’
That timepiece showcased a fully polished bracelet, case and dial, topped by a sapphire crystal featuring a metallized dotted pattern, which did as much to add visual interest to the dial as it did to somewhat subdue the visual impact of the watch. Then when Sartory Billard introduced its first steel sports watch with an integrated bracelet last year, we saw the opportunity to create a watch that was completely mirror polished, and moreover, fully unencumbered, for maximum impact.
Grail Watch 11: Sartory Billard SB07 ‘Ghost’
By achieving a flawless mirror polish throughout the bracelet, case and dial, steel becomes almost invisible — hence, the sobriquet “Ghost” was also chosen for our watch. This allows the architectural design of the watch to take center stage. The result, interestingly, does not feel so much like a new iteration of an existing watch as it does an entirely new objet d’art.
Grail Watch 11: Sartory Billard SB07 ‘Ghost’
German silver takes on a warm gold hue as it develops patina, reflecting the time spent with its wearer
Available in a limited edition of 15 pieces, the Grail Watch Sartory Billard SB07 “Ghost” is a watch that invites the wearer to be curious and to indulge in its distinct design. Sports-worthy with a depth rating of 100 meters, the watch case consists of three parts: bezel, case flanks and display caseback. The case flanks feature a recessed portion, while the bezel has two wide notches. On the standard SB07 model, this allows for three different kinds of finishing: satin brushing on the top surface of the case and bezel, polishing on the bezel rim, and microblasting on the recessed areas of the flanks and bezel notches.
Grail Watch 11: Sartory Billard SB07 ‘Ghost’
However, on the SB07 “Ghost,” they are entirely polished while retaining the microblasted notches on the bezel and recesses of the case flanks. This works to help break up its verticality, reducing the perceived height of the watch. The case measures 40mm in diameter, 48mm lug to lug and is 10.65mm high. Notably, due to the integrated bracelet design, like the Royal Oak, the lugs flare out slightly. However, it will fit wrists as small as 15.5cm.
The perfect mirror polish finish extends through to the bracelet
Ordinarily, the bracelet of the SB07 has a satin finish on the exterior H-shaped links with polished center links, but here it is entirely mirror polished on the topside, while its underside is satin brushed as usual so that it is smoother and more comfortable against the skin. Each H-shaped link is also bordered with polished bevels, which give the components a defined presence despite having a homogeneous texture throughout.
Mirror, Mirror on the Dial
To match the color of the case and bracelet, the dial of the new SB07 “Ghost” is also made of stainless steel. Due to its large and flat surface area, any imperfection or irregularity would be obvious on the smooth surface of the dial. Thus, an exacting standard of polishing is needed to ensure perfection. Moreover, as polishing involves removing a few microns of material, applying consistent pressure during the polishing process is crucial in creating an even and distortion-free surface. Armand shared that 170 dials were produced to arrive at 15 perfect ones.
Painstakingly hand polished, the perfect mirror finish is dazzling under all lighting conditions
Polishing involves a laborious multistep process where the notches and pockets on the dial blank are first sandblasted and protected with a layer of lacquer. The polishing process itself is carried out in stages, starting with coarser abrasives to remove imperfections and surface irregularities. This is carried out with a polishing or buffing wheel before progressing to finer abrasives, which is rubbed on the dial in circular or linear motions by hand until the desired level of reflectivity is achieved. This allows for greater control over the polishing process, ensuring that the surface is evenly polished and arrives at a uniform mirror-like appearance. Throughout the process, the dial is inspected regularly to assess the progress; any areas that require additional attention are addressed accordingly.
Microblasted notches on the bezel beautifully contrast with the case's mirror polish
Once the desired level of polish is achieved, the lacquer is then removed and the dial is cleaned again to remove any remaining polishing compound or residue. Proper care is also essential post-polishing. Polished surfaces have fewer irregularities, allowing dust to settle more easily on the surface. They can also develop a slight electrostatic charge, especially when they are rubbed or cleaned, which attracts dust particles from the surrounding environment. As such, assembling the watch in a dust-free environment is all the more essential here.
Molded SuperLumi-Nova applied on hands and odd indexes
The highly polished face of the SB07 “Ghost” is contrasted with its luminescent hands, indexes and minute track. Super-LumiNova is molded to form baton indexes, which are applied over the dial. The minute track, on the other hand, is pad-printed with Super-LumiNova on a sapphire crystal disk that is superimposed over the dial, and the hands are filled with Super-LumiNova.
Through the Sapphire Glass
The movement in the SB07 “Ghost” is the La Joux-Perret automatic G100, which has been customized with a “mysterious” sapphire rotor, allowing the movement to be seen. On the periphery of the sapphire support is a fluted titanium ring with a hidden weighted sector made of tungsten. The movement features a traditional three-quarter plate design with a classically shaped balance cock. It has a directly driven center seconds, a hacking function, and most of all, is notable for being a better-performing alternative to the ETA 2824 or Sellita SW200.
The customized "mysterious" rotor allows full viewing pleasure of the La Joux-Perret automatic G100
Although it has the same frequency of 4Hz and similar dimensions to the others, it offers a much longer power reserve of 68 hours. Additionally, the rotor hub is secured to the bridge with three screws which is rarely seen on movements of its ilk. The finishing is cleanly executed with perlage on the baseplate, striping on the bridges, along with the added flair of fluting on the outer rim of the rotor.
On wrist, the full mirror polish provides a dazzling wearing experience
On the wrist, the Sartory Billard SB07 “Ghost” is an undeniable visual spectacle. With this amount of light on the wrist, it is certainly a lot to look at, and its impact surpasses even that of certain full-gold watches. The wearing experience is quite surreal as it is literally a reflection of the world around it and the wearer’s presence within it. The degree to which the watch changes character can seem highly unusual for first-time wearers. It can feel sporty, powerful and unapologetic in daylight, or moody, sleek and enigmatic at night. Once the noise has settled and the wearer grows accustomed to this phenomenon, its reflective nature becomes a natural catalyst for introspection, self-awareness and even a deeper appreciation for the world around us, although we suspect that the novelty and depth of experience that comes with wearing a watch that shines with the light of the heavens will go undiminished for a very long time.
Grail Watch 11: Sartory Billard SB07 “Ghost”
Grail Watch 11: Sartory Billard SB07 “Ghost” is available for public purchase now. Available in a limited edition of fifteen pieces, it is priced at EUR 9,950 each. For enquiries, email shop@grailwatch.com.
Wei Koh chats with Armand Billard, co-founder of Sartory Billard, about Grail Watch 11: Sartory Billard SB07 'Ghost'
Grail Watch 11: Sartory Billard SB07 “Ghost”
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Grail Watch 11: Sartory Billard SB07 “Ghost”
Movement: Self-winding La Joux-Perret caliber G100; 68-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes and seconds
Case: 40mm; stainless steel; water resistant to 100m
Dial: Mirror-polished stainless steel; Super-LumiNova molded hour markers
Strap: Integrated mirror-polished stainless steel bracelet; additional integrated rubber with polished first link, and cut-to-size and polished deployant buckle
Price: EUR 9,950
Availability: Limited edition of 15 pieces
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